Brush Marks Are The Biggest Giveaway In Cabinet Painting
A brush leaves ridges, and ridges collect grime. On a flat slab door from an Applewood Acres bungalow, every stroke shows once the kitchen gets new pot lights or under-cabinet strips. Rollers leave an orange-peel texture that looks no better.
Sprayed cabinet painting avoids both. Each coat goes on thin and flows flat before it sets, and a light sanding between coats keeps the surface smooth. The result is also tougher, since a thin, hard film resists chipping at handles and drawer edges better than a thick, soft one.
Why Cabinet Painting Doors Are Sprayed In A Booth
Doors lie flat on racks in the booth, so the paint levels without sagging. Filters keep dust out of the wet finish, and the temperature stays steady from coat to coat. Those three things are hard to control in a working kitchen.
The booth also takes most of the odour and mess out of your house. That matters in a closed bungalow kitchen, where there is no second room to retreat to, and in condos, where hallway odour draws complaints. Condo cabinet work covers the building side.
On-Site Cabinet Painting For The Boxes Inside The House
Cabinet boxes are fixed in place, so on-site cabinet painting needs containment. We run plastic from floor to ceiling, tape it at every seam, cover the floor from the door to the kitchen and set up air extraction. Counters, appliances and the sink are wrapped.
Face frames, end panels and any visible box sides are sprayed with the same coatings as the doors. The work zone usually needs one day, and the plastic comes down once the last coat is dry to the touch.
Many Applewood bungalows and side-splits have had the wall between the kitchen and living room removed. That opens up the house, but it also means there is no door to close during spray cabinet painting.
In those homes, our containment goes further. We run plastic from floor to ceiling across the opening, protect the furniture on the far side and route the air extraction to a window. Your living room remains tidy and in use, with all cabinet painting kept behind the barrier.
Two Coatings Handle Most Cabinet Painting Jobs
Waterborne alkyd enamel is the topcoat we use most. It flows flat, tints to almost any shade and smells mild. Coats are a night apart, the doors handle light use within roughly a week, and full hardness arrives near the one-month mark.
Two-part polyurethane is the tougher choice. A hardener goes in just before spraying, and the coating cures by chemical reaction, so it is hard within about a day. It costs more and must be sprayed within hours of mixing, and it is our pick for heavy-use kitchens and mudroom cabinets.
Primer depends on the material. Shellac-based primer seals oak and cherry, bonding primer grips melamine, laminate and sound thermofoil, and a general bonding primer suits maple, poplar and old paint. Slick surfaces get their own page at melamine and thermofoil work.
Humid Weeks Add Time To Cabinet Painting
Waterborne coatings dry by giving off water, and damp summer air slows that down. On muggy days in Mississauga we allow longer gaps between coats on the boxes, since the booth controls conditions for the doors only.
A day of extra waiting is better than a soft finish. Enamel hurried along on a sticky day stays soft and dents for months, which is why the forecast sets our pace more than the calendar does.